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Thursday, March 10, 2005

Local winery takes first step toward reality



Debbie Frey checks the color and clarity of Pinot Noir, one of many varieties being tested at Churchill Vineyards.  Photo illustration Kim Lamb
Debbie Frey checks the color and clarity of Pinot Noir, one of many varieties being tested at Churchill Vineyards.  Photo illustration Kim LambENLARGE
Debbie Frey checks the color and clarity of Pinot Noir, one of many varieties being tested at Churchill Vineyards. Photo illustration Kim Lamb
Budding Churchill County wine maker Charlie Frey cleared the first of many hurdles to creating his own commercial winery last week, getting the blessing of the county commission.

While several agencies from the state and federal government regulate wineries, the first step in the process is getting the county government to tell the state that the wine maker is a decent person.

"I believe Charlie is of good moral character," said commissioner Lynn Pearce.

The commission approved the statement 2-0. Commissioner Norm Frey, Charlie's cousin, abstained from the vote.

From here, to create a winery Frey will have to secure bonds to ensure he will pay various taxes. He will have to get a business license and a liquor license. He will have to clear hurdles from newly renamed Alcohol Tobacco Taxes and Trade Bureau. And he will have to comply with bioterrorism guidelines from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, among other tasks.

"There's so many taxes on this, I don't know why anyone would want to do it," he said. "There's just so many steps that need to take place, I don't know where to go first."

Frey has spent nearly four years establishing 10 varieties of grapes on his ranch south of Fallon. Last Fall, he harvested some of the grapes for the first time. and, with the help of a semi-retired California wine maker, created the first few bottles of Lahontan Valley wine.

"We've already been dipping into the Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer and Semillion a little bit. We're really happy with it," he said.

Frey's ultimate goal is to establish Churchill County as a prime location to grow grapes suitable for premium wine. Research by the University of Nevada, Reno, suggests northern Nevada's soil and climate will produce high-end fruit.

Grapes may be the savior of agriculture in the Lahontan Valley, Frey said. With more interests clamoring for the irrigation water that feeds Fallon-area farms, he said, a low-water use crop like grapes has to be mixed in with the traditional alfalfa and corn fields if the valley is to stay green.

"If we don't put these fields back into production with something that consumes a lot less water, we're going to be hurting," he added.

Frey has applied with state engineer's office to "strip irrigate." The vines are planted in one-foot strips, eight feet apart, and only the strips are watered. With the water it would take to irrigate one acre of alfalfa or corn, Frey can water eight acres of grapes.

Eventually, if all his experimentation produces high quality wines, Frey hopes to start a cooperative of grape growers and market local wines.

If it all happens, he said, "I'm hoping this is going to stimulate the local economy."


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